The Cabo de Gata-Nijar natural park – to give it its full title – is an area of rugged desert next to the sea a 45-minute drive from the house. It's a sunbleached landscape, with volcanic outcrops and rocky inlets linked by wide sandy bays. The views are of arid headlands and the deep blue Mediterranean.
Development is controlled so the few resorts that there are inside the park are low-rise and low-key. You can head for whitewashed seaside villages like Agua Amarga or Las Negras, or find an isolated cove of your own. This is one of the few locations left in the Mediterranean where you can still enjoy beach life in a pristine landscape.
Once you've had your fill of sunbathing and swimming, you could head inland to the village of Rodalquilar where gold was once mined. The visitor centre here has information on activities like diving, kayaking and hiking, and details on the flora, fauna and history of the area.
While you're in the park, don't miss a trip to Salinas, where sea salt has been produced for thousands of years. A church paid for by the salt workers shows how important this industry was – although the building is now crumbling and closed to visitors. At a hide by the coast road, you can watch hundreds of flamingo come in to feed just before dusk in summer.

The church at Salinas, far left,
and fishing boats at the
tiny port of Isleta del Moro
on the Cabo de Gata
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• Manaca,
above – at the end of a switchback track
south-west of Mojacar Playa, (look out for the square watch
tower and take a left off the coast road there). At the
first small, uncrowded pebbly bay, swimming cozzies are
optional. In the next bay along there's a good
• Agua Amarga,
above A fashionable resort among Spanish and
Italians, with a beach of fine grey sand sheltered by
limestone cliffs at either end and some good cafés and
restaurants including
• Las Negras,
above Named after the black volcanic headland,
this is an isolated fishing port with a few beach-front
bars and cafés. Boats will take you out diving or to the
peaceful cove of San Pedro.